My Christmas Eve on Tenerife is celebrated by the locals in the company of family and friends, with an emphasis on togetherness around the festive table.
Every year, I am invited by villagers to enjoy everything centered around the Christmas theme. This year, the table was set outdoors, adding even more charm to the atmosphere. The weather was kind to us, slightly cooler than usual for the time of year, but with an extra layer on, this delightful evening could not have been better. Christmas Eve here is called Nochebuena.
Pure Simplicity
The streets of Tajao exude a serene silence on Christmas Eve. All the seafood restaurants are closed because Christmas Eve is traditionally a family celebration in non-touristy areas. The small fishing village, surrounded by the gentle sound of the ocean, seems to bask in the mild Canarian evening air. As I take the final steps toward my friends’ home, I feel the contrast between this soft climate and the icy Christmas nights of my youth in the Low Countries. It almost feels as though the Canary Islands invite me each year to experience Christmas in their own unique way.
Inside, I am greeted by my Canarian friends with their characteristic warmth and hospitality. ¡Feliz Navidad! is the standard phrase and is joyfully exclaimed in unison, while the aroma of locally prepared dishes tantalizes my senses. The table is a true feast for the eyes: aguacate relleno, pescado salado, gofio escaldado, papas arrugadas with mojo rojo and mojo verde, and, of course, a large dish of carne de cabra. In the center of the table stands a carafe of vino del país from a small vineyard in Arico. The simplicity of the dishes radiates a purity that perfectly complements the ambiance of the evening.
Traditions from Near and Far
During the Canary dinner, stories are shared, and jokes are made in a mix of Spanish, Canarian dialect, and even a bit of Dutch for fun. My friends laugh as I describe how different Christmas traditions are in Flanders, with gourmet meals, snow, and thick sweaters. They are curious about the details: how my mother always ensured a beautifully decorated Christmas tree, how my father carved the turkey with precision, and how we all watched old black-and-white films together after the meal.
Meanwhile, I enjoy the mild climate that allows us to sit outside under a clear starry sky while we toast to life. “There’s no need for snow to feel warm,” my friend Juan Luis says with a wink. And he’s right. The warmth comes not only from the temperature but also from the people around me, the conversations, and the shared appreciation of this evening.
Evening Silence
After the meal, it’s time for café con leche and a selection of sweets, including bienmesabe and turrón. As the flavors melt in my mouth, my thoughts drift back to the Christmas celebrations of the past. I see the faces of my grandparents before me, smiling in the flickering candlelight. I hear the laughter of my cousins as we indulged in hot chocolate and Christmas cookies. The scent of pine needles, the sound of fireworks in the distance, and the warmth of being together that once felt so natural. It was a different time, a different place, but the nostalgia somehow feels like a bridge between that world and the present.
The fresh sea breeze mingles with the murmurs of the village, where lights still twinkle in some windows. I bid farewell to my friends with a promise to see them again soon and begin my walk back home. The road winds along the coast, where the waves rhythmically crash against the rocks. The silence is interrupted only occasionally by the soft rustling of the wind or the distant call of a seagull. Like previous years, I once again fully enjoy my Christmas Eve on Tenerife.
The Essence
During my walk, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. It’s not the grandeur of a lavish Christmas celebration that makes this evening special but rather the simplicity, the warmth, and the connection. As I tuck my hands into my pockets and leave the village behind, I know that I will cherish this moment, just as I cherish the memories of Christmases in the Low Countries.
At home, I make myself a cup of tea and settle into my chair with a view of the ocean stretching out beneath a cloudless starry sky. The Canarian night is calm, and I reflect on how Christmas can take so many forms: with snow and cold or with a gentle breeze and an ocean backdrop. What always remains the same is the essence: being together, sharing memories, and being grateful for the present.
My Christmas Eve on Tenerife, like all my previous Christmas Eves, has become a memory. One that I will gladly add to my collection of Christmas stories. And who knows, maybe one day I’ll write a book about it—a story that brings together Canarian warmth and Flemish nostalgia, just as this evening did.
Guy Devos © AI Illustration
My Christmas Eve on Tenerife ©
More TRIVIA can be read [HERE].
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